1. Put the temperature switch to normal position.
2. Place the sensor on top level of the egg for still-air incubator and at center level of the egg for force air incubator. However, due to the air circulation in a forced-air incubator, the temperature on top and center levels of the egg is almost the same. Therefore the placement of the sensor is not very significant. For large forced-air incubator, place the sensor near where the air comes from or the supply of air. Refer to the image below.
3. During calibration, the thermostat sensor and the thermometer sensor must be at the same position. Put it very close together for optimum calibration result. Calibration must be done for at least 12-24 hours to ensure that everything is established. Adjust the potentiometer very slowly and accordingly to increase or decrease the temperature.
4. For still-air incubator, temperature should be set to 38.9 ºC with the sensor on top level of the egg. For forced-air incubator, set to 37.5 ºC. (The temperature is the same almost anywhere in the incubator.)
5. From day 1 to day 18, the temperature switch should be on normal position. And from day 18 to day 21, the switch should be on minus 1 ºC position to decrease the temperature for 1 ºC.
6. After calibration is done, ensure that the potentiometer will not move. Put Stikwel glue to lock the potentiometer. Refer to the image below.
7. The eggs must be turned at least 3 times a day from day 1 to day 18 and stop turning from day 18 to 21. The chick will come out on their own.
8. During calibration, use digital thermometer for best result. Mercury thermometer though can also be used if digital is not available. However, before using a mercury thermometer, the thermometer’s error must be checked first. Place some crushed ice in a container and fill with small amount of fresh water. Merge the bulb of the mercury thermometer and the reading should be at 0 ºC. This will make sure that your thermometer is accurate or can give you a baseline reading if there is error.